南美洲正在消除饥饿 South America is eradicating hunger

The smell of grilled meat wafts through the shanty town of Guamá. Its riverside favelas are among Brazil’s poorest, but on a recent weekday residents cooked steak and shrimp on their porches. “Life isn’t easy,” says Alex Lima, a shopkeeper who sells coxinha pasties from his wooden house on stilts in the coffee-coloured water. Yet it is improving, fast.
烤肉的香气在瓜马(Guamá)棚户区四处飘荡。这里的河畔贫民窟曾是巴西最贫困的地区之一,但在最近的某个工作日,居民们却在自家门廊前悠闲地烤着牛排和海虾。“生活依然不易,”亚历克斯·利马(Alex Lima)说道。他是一名店主,在咖啡色河水上方的高脚木屋里经营着炸鸡肉卷的生意。不过,这里的生活水平正在迅速改善。
The share of people who are hungry has been decreasing faster in South America than anywhere else in the world. It is down by one-third since 2020, according to a report published on July 21st by the UN’s Food and Agriculture Organisation (FAO). Just 3.5% of people in the region consume insufficient calories, the lowest level recorded. Eliminating hunger by 2030 is one of the UN’s “sustainable development” goals. “If there is a region in the world that can potentially achieve that, it’s South America,” says Máximo Torero, the FAO’s chief economist.
在南美洲,饥饿人口比例的下降速度冠绝全球。联合国粮食及农业组织(FAO)在7月21日发布的一份报告显示,自2020年以来,该地区的饥饿人口已减少了三分之一。目前,南美洲仅有3.5%的人口面临热量摄入不足的问题,创下历史新低。联合国设定的“可持续发展”目标之一便是到2030年彻底消除饥饿。粮农组织首席经济学家马克西莫·托雷罗(Máximo Torero)直言:“如果世界上真有一个地区有望实现这一宏伟目标,那一定会是南美洲。”
The continent has been here before. Hunger plummeted in the 2000s as a commodity boom lifted economic growth, allowing left-wing leaders to splurge on social programmes. In Venezuela Hugo Chávez created state-subsidised supermarkets. Argentina’s Néstor and Cristina Kirchner funded comedores populares (soup kitchens). Brazil’s Luiz Inácio Lula da Silva expanded credit for small-scale family farmers. The splurging worked, but when commodity prices fell in 2014, triggering recessions across the region, food insecurity shot up and stayed there. The pandemic made things worse. As unemployment surged, it dragged swathes of the middle class into poverty and hunger.
对于这片大陆而言,这并非前所未有的创举。在21世纪初,大宗商品的繁荣带动了经济增长,让左翼领导人能够斥巨资投入社会福利项目,南美洲的饥饿人口因此锐减。在委内瑞拉,乌戈·查韦斯(Hugo Chávez)建立了由国家补贴的超市;在阿根廷,内斯托尔·基什内尔(Néstor Kirchner)与克里斯蒂娜·基什内尔(Cristina Kirchner)出资设立了救济食堂;在巴西,路易斯·伊纳西奥·卢拉·达席尔瓦(Luiz Inácio Lula da Silva)则扩大了对小规模家庭农户的信贷支持。政府的大把撒钱确实取得了成效,但随着2014年大宗商品价格暴跌,整个地区陷入经济衰退,粮食不安全问题随之急剧反弹并居高不下。后来的新冠疫情更是雪上加霜,失业率飙升,也不可避免地将大量中产阶级拖进了贫困与饥饿的深渊。
Yet most countries have recovered. Brazil led the way. Lula, as the president is commonly known, made food security a priority when he returned to office in 2023. By 2025 Brazil had made it off the UN’s Hunger Map, which tracks countries where more than 2.5% of the population suffers from chronic hunger. Chile and oil-rich Guyana were also removed. Argentina is almost there at under 3%. Colombia and Paraguay are approaching at 4%, while Peru and crisis-battered Venezuela are making inroads near 5%. Even Ecuador and Bolivia have improved a tad, to 11% and 20% respectively. Only Suriname is moving in the wrong direction.
然而,如今大多数国家已从困境中恢复元气。巴西更是一马当先。这位被民众亲切称为“卢拉”的总统在2023年重新执政后,将粮食安全列为了首要任务。截至2025年,巴西已成功从联合国的“饥饿版图”上除名;该版图专门追踪长期饥饿人口比例超过2.5%的国家。智利以及石油资源丰富的圭亚那也同样被移出名单。阿根廷的饥饿人口比例已降至不足3%,距离摘帽仅一步之遥。哥伦比亚和巴拉圭的比例降至接近4%,而秘鲁和饱受危机摧残的委内瑞拉也取得了进展,比例正逼近5%。就连厄瓜多尔和玻利维亚的情况也有所好转,比例分别降至11%和20%。目前,唯有苏里南的情况仍在持续恶化。
This decline rests on sturdier foundations. The first is macroeconomic stability. South America’s central banks are far more independent and adept at managing inflation than they were two decades ago. Its monetary officials were quick to lift interest rates aggressively during the pandemic, getting inflation under control faster than elsewhere. While covid-19 stimulus packages did swell public debt, subsequent governments have trimmed spending, too much of which can pump up inflation. President Javier Milei’s shock therapy has yielded Argentina’s first primary surplus since 2008. Conservatives in Bolivia, Chile and Ecuador are also cutting spending. Newly elected right-wingers in Peru and Colombia pledge to do the same.
此次饥饿人口的大幅减少,建立在更为稳固的根基之上。首要因素便是宏观经济的稳定。与二十年前相比,南美各国央行的独立性大幅增强,在遏制通胀方面也更加游刃有余。在疫情期间,该地区的货币政策制定者迅速且果断地大幅加息,从而比全球其他地区更早地控制住了通胀。尽管针对新冠疫情的经济刺激方案确实导致了公共债务激增,但由于过度支出极易重新推高通胀,历届继任政府都采取了削减开支的措施。在总统哈维尔·米莱(Javier Milei)“休克疗法”的猛药之下,阿根廷实现了自2008年以来的首次初级财政盈余。玻利维亚、智利和厄瓜多尔的保守派政府也正纷纷缩减开支。秘鲁和哥伦比亚新当选的右翼领导人同样作出了跟进的承诺。
This eases pressure on grocery bills. Monthly food-price inflation in Argentina has slowed from a peak of almost 30% in 2023—among the world’s worst rates—to under 2% in June, lower than wage growth. Bolivia’s annual rate was 33% in November, when a right-wing president, Rodrigo Paz, took office. It’s now running at around 13%. In Ecuador food inflation has turned negative while wages are stable. Alongside big oil reserves, fiscal discipline has buffered South America from the economic shock of the Iran war.
这大大缓解了民众在日常买菜上的花销压力。阿根廷的食品价格月度通胀率曾一度在2023年飙升至近30%的峰值,创下全球最高记录之一;但到了今年6月,该数字已回落至2%以下,低于工资的涨幅水平。去年11月,在右翼总统罗德里戈·帕斯(Rodrigo Paz)就职之际,玻利维亚的食品通胀年率高达33%,而如今已降至13%左右。在厄瓜多尔,食品通胀率甚至出现了负增长,同时工资水平保持稳定。除了充裕的石油储备,严格的财政纪律也为南美洲构筑了一道防线,使其在伊朗战争引发的经济冲击中得以平稳着陆。
Yet groceries that become more affordable over time do little to help those too poor to buy enough food today. Social programmes are the other pillar of South America’s success in reducing hunger. Most famous is Brazil’s Bolsa Família, a cash-transfer programme which pays families a stipend if they vaccinate their children and send them to school. Lula has also raised Brazil’s minimum wage. “These are the core policies,” says José Graziano da Silva, a former boss of the FAO.
然而,长远来看食品变得越来越亲民,却解不了当下赤贫阶层买不起口粮的燃眉之急。因此,各类社会福利项目便构成了南美洲成功减少饥饿人口的另一大支柱。其中最著名的当属巴西的“家庭补助金”(Bolsa Família)计划;作为一项现金转移支付项目,只要家庭按时送孩子上学并接种疫苗,就能领取一笔津贴。此外,卢拉还提高了巴西的最低工资标准。粮农组织前总干事若泽·格拉齐亚诺·达席尔瓦(José Graziano da Silva)直言:“这些都是最核心的政策。”
Such measures were standard in the 2000s, too. However, they have become more sophisticated, says Elisabetta Recine of Consea, the Brazilian government’s advisory council on food security. Bolsa Família has digitalised payments and linked them to social registries, reducing fraud and increasing flexibility (so that, for instance, it can now cover seasonal workers who dip in and out of poverty). Colombia is looking at scrapping conditions on cash transfers to the poorest, whose children may not have a school to attend. Chile’s version includes job training.
巴西政府食品安全咨询委员会(Consea)的伊丽莎白·雷西内(Elisabetta Recine)表示,尽管这类措施在21世纪初也曾是常规操作,但如今政策的设计已变得更为成熟与精细。“家庭补助金”计划实现了支付环节的数字化,并将其与社会福利登记系统联网,这不仅有效减少了骗保行为,还大幅提升了发放的灵活性(例如,该计划现在能够覆盖那些在贫困线上下挣扎的季节性工人)。哥伦比亚则在考虑取消针对极度贫困人群发放现金的附加条件,因为这些家庭的孩子可能根本没有学校可上。而在智利,同类的救济项目还与职业技能培训进行了捆绑。
Cash-transfer schemes are wildly popular. Right-wing politicians have embraced them. While in office, Brazil’s former president Jair Bolsonaro tripled the average stipend provided by Bolsa Família. Mr Milei doubled funding for food stamps after receiving criticism from the Catholic church. Abelardo de la Espriella, Colombia’s populist right-wing president-elect, has vowed to shrink the state by 40%, yet claims, optimistically, that he will not touch social handouts. Chile’s arch-conservative president, José Antonio Kast, has needed to invoke the spectre of drug crime in an effort to slash benefits, proposing a “vandals registry” that blocks those with a criminal record from receiving benefits.
现金转移支付计划在民众中极具号召力,甚至连右翼政客也纷纷予以采纳。巴西前总统雅伊尔·博索纳罗(Jair Bolsonaro)在任期间,就曾将“家庭补助金”的平均津贴额度提高了两倍。米莱总统在遭到天主教会的批评后,也将用于发放食品券的资金翻了一番。哥伦比亚新当选的民粹主义右翼总统阿韦拉多·德拉埃斯普列拉(Abelardo de la Espriella)虽曾立誓要将政府机关规模缩减40%,但他同样极度乐观地宣称,自己绝不会削减社会福利。在智利,极端保守派总统何塞·安东尼奥·卡斯特(José Antonio Kast)为了削减福利,甚至不得不以毒品犯罪的威胁为借口;他提议建立一份“破坏分子登记册”,借此剥夺有犯罪记录者领取福利的资格。
Serious challenges remain. The biggest is climate change. With rising temperatures, plant pests and crop failures have become more common. The coming year looks especially fraught. The National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration, a US government agency, says the coming cycle of the El Niño weather pattern will be “very strong”. That is the highest of the five categories used to rank the phenomenon, used for only the third time since 1950. “It’s going to aggravate every food problem,” says Carolina Trivelli, a former government minister in Peru.
尽管成绩斐然,严峻的挑战依然存在。首当其冲的便是气候变化。随着气温不断攀升,植物虫害与农作物歉收现象变得愈发频繁。未来一年的形势看起来尤为严酷。据美国政府机构国家海洋和大气管理局(NOAA)预测,即将到来的一轮厄尔尼诺气候模式将“异常强烈”。在衡量该现象的五级标准中,这属于最高级别,且自1950年以来仅使用过三次。“这势必会加剧所有与粮食相关的问题,”秘鲁前政府部长卡罗琳娜·特里维利(Carolina Trivelli)警告称。
That makes it a bad moment to fine-tune welfare schemes. Yet change is needed. Many countries struggle to wean recipients off cash-transfer programmes. A study found one-fifth of children who in 2005 were covered by Bolsa Família were still covered as adults in 2024. What began as a relatively cheap and focused project in 2003 has ballooned. It now costs 1.5% of GDP and covers nearly a fifth of households. The current design is discouraging workers from joining the formal sector, according to a paper by Daniel Duque of the Getulio Vargas Foundation, a university in São Paulo. “There are more efficient ways to fight hunger,” he says.
这无疑意味着,当下并非微调福利计划的好时机,但变革却又势在必行。许多国家都面临一个难题:如何让受助者摆脱对现金转移支付项目的依赖。一项研究发现,在2005年受惠于“家庭补助金”计划的儿童中,有五分之一的人到2024年成年后仍在领取这项救济。该项目在2003年启动之初不仅成本相对低廉,且受众定位极其明确,但如今其规模已极度膨胀。现在,该项目的支出占到了全国GDP的1.5%,覆盖了近五分之一的家庭。位于圣保罗的热图利奥·瓦加斯基金会(Getulio Vargas Foundation)学者丹尼尔·杜克(Daniel Duque)在其论文中指出,目前的制度设计反而打消了劳动者进入正规就业市场的积极性。他坦言:“我们绝对有更高效的途径来对抗饥饿。”
Then there is diet. The shares of children who are overweight and adults who are obese have surged to record levels of close to 10% and 30% respectively, among the worst in the world. Adjusted for purchasing power, South America is the fourth most expensive place in the world to procure a healthy diet, after the Caribbean, North Africa and South-East Asia. Fruits and vegetables are surprisingly expensive for an area known for growing them. That is because farmland is largely dedicated to commodities. When greens are produced, bad roads and dodgy cold chains yank up costs. Cash-strapped consumers are more likely to reach for processed, calorie-dense products.
其次便是饮食结构问题。在南美洲,超重儿童和肥胖成年人的比例已双双飙升至历史新高,分别接近10%和30%,成为全球该项指标表现最糟糕的地区之一。若按购买力平价计算,南美洲是全球获取健康饮食成本第四高的地区,仅次于加勒比地区、北非和东南亚。南美洲素以盛产果蔬闻名,但令人惊讶的是,当地的果蔬价格却极其高昂。究其原因,大量农田已被用于种植出口性的大宗商品农作物。即便生产出了绿色蔬菜,破败不堪的公路网络和极不可靠的冷链物流也会大幅拉高成本。如此一来,手头拮据的消费者只能无奈地转而购买那些经过深加工且热量极高的食品。
These are manageable problems. New technologies are helping farmers adapt to a changing climate. Policymakers in Bolivia, Brazil and Peru have quietly acknowledged that certain programmes need better targeting. Improved labelling of healthier food is gaining ground, as are sin taxes, says Juliana Tângari of Comida do Amanhã, a Brazilian think-tank. No food system is perfect. Yet outright hunger may soon have rumbled its last in South America.
不过,这些都并非无法化解的难题。得益于新技术的应用,农民正逐步适应气候的变化。玻利维亚、巴西和秘鲁的政策制定者也已私底下承认,部分福利项目亟需更加精准的受众定位。巴西智库“明日之食”(Comida do Amanhã)的朱莉安娜·坦加里(Juliana Tângari)表示,更加完善的健康食品标签制度正日益普及,针对不健康食品征收的“罪恶税”也同样在推广开来。诚然,世上没有十全十美的粮食系统。但也许在不久的将来,因食不果腹而发出的肠胃辘辘声,将在南美洲彻底成为历史。